sponsorship what what

Über late on this one I know.

This def should have been posted at the end of June – but this event sparked a re-energized fervor for climbing and hence, the lack of blogging…  my b

Long story short: at the end of June, I got word back from Mad Rock that I am officially a sponsored climber and ambassador of their products!  It was Friday, June 25 at 4:30 – of course I remember the details, who wouldn’t imprint this memories into their brain?  It was without a doubt one of the happiest moments of my life.

Now keep in mind that this is not the full-on, salaried sponsorship (typically involved with promotion and product development/testing) with free worldwide travel and competitions and whatnot.  That is every amateur athlete’s dream.  What I do have is the next best thing though.  2 free pairs of shoes a year – which is the average number a climber goes through in a year (unless you are outside 5 days a week or just have horrendous footwork).  swag.  Major discounts.  But the main thing is that all the necessities are free.  I couldn’t ask for more – basically living the average climber’s dream, and sooooo thankful for it.

This def came at a good time too.  Just on the verge of fully breaking the V7 plateau and going full speed ahead to 8s.  This year has gone by fast.  Went from projecting 6s to flashing 6s.  Went from taking multiple days to complete one 7 to completing multiple 7s in one day.  I have only done 3 V8s to date (that rhymed) but that will change soon as well.  Eagerly looking forward to this year’s climbing season and the progression that is to come.  Also excited to meet some new Emory climbers – hopefully the kids will take it more seriously this year once they learn their coach is now sponsored?  I dunno, we shall see how things go.

Oh yeah – first set of goodies came in.

Say hello to my new toys: Concept 2.0 (left), currently my favorite shoes, and Mad Rock’s newest release, Demon 2.0 (right).

^_^

How I Got a Free Pair of Climbing Shoes

So about 3 weeks ago, I made a blog post titled “F**king shoes!”  I didn’t really expect much from it except some ‘likes’, maybe a comment here or there, or perhaps a few followers.  The following day, I received the following email and comment on my climbing blog (on the ‘About Me’ page if you want to see for yourself):

I like your last blog post. I would love to get you into another pair of Mad Rock shoes. Please send me your mailing info, contact info, along with model and size. Thanks for the honest insight.

 

~markmyhsieh

Mad Rock Climbing

12878 Florence Ave

Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670

This was, by far, the awesomest email/comment/4sentences that anyone has EVER written to me!  It was on the same level as getting into college or getting a job.  Yeah.  I was that excited.  The 6 hours of sleep I was planning on having turned into 3 due to the excitement.  I mean, how often do you get expensive, free stuff?

So 2 weeks went by and couldn’t help but think it was a fake.  I know it sparked some controversial arguments, but what kind of person fakes the best comment ever from a real person and a real climbing shoe company?  Expecting it to be a scam for over a week, my excitement was replenished when I got a knock at the door.

Thanks Mark Hsieh from Mad Rock California for the awesome gift!  You are a good guy.  Thanks for the Concept 2.0s!  I even slept with them on last night to speed up the break-in process before the comp on Saturday.  Let this be a lesson to all you bloggers:  keep blogging.  keep climbing.  stay passionate.

Competition 1

2012 is going to be a great year for growth.  And nothing is better to see progress than a little friendly competition, right?  Time to take on CCS (Collegiate Climbing Series) in the South East division.  First comp was Feb. 11th at University of Alabama  – Birmingham.

The Emory car left at 6:00am for an ETA of 8:30am, which is just in time for the 9:00am start.  As ignorant Georgians, we were completely unaware that Alabama was in Central Time Zone…  Got there an hour earlier than expected but I guess its better to be early than late.

Walking up the stairs to the climbing wall, this caught our eye and stopped us in our tracks, jaws dropped:

Well it may not look like much- but they have a whirlpool AND a lazy river in their REC center!  Those are things that make people who hate swimming go to the pool.  Ok a little off track – sorry.

So the format of this comp was best 2 top ropes and 3 boulder problems in 3 hours.  Format was considered to be crap due to all the boulderers lacking the endurance to send some rope routes.  I was one of them.  Definitely had to downgrade just to squeeze 2 routes in before the time was up.  Luckily, other boulderers had the same problem so t’was all good in the end.  It just means we need to be more all-around climbers…  NOT. Bouldering all the way!!!

First time competing in the advanced division and was pretty happy with the end results – finished in 3rd place!  What annoyed me though was that I completed a hard boulder problem (10 minutes after the time was up) that would have put me to 1st.  But it is all good – still placed.  I just need to work on power endurance and space out my climbs.  Successful comp indeed. What did I win?

What’s in the box?

Freeze dried ice cream sandwiches!  WIN.

Next comp = Clemson University on March 3rd.  Let’s do this!

“F**king shoes!”

Its all too common to hear some dude at the gym yell that out after their failure on a route they almost sent. On the inside, I laugh at every single occurrence and occasionally, I walk away to laugh out loud. I find it hilarious watching grown men pouting as they remove their shoes and throw them on the ground – what are you, 8? Perhaps you are fortunate enough to not have whiny dudes bouldering at your home gym, but at Stone Summit, there are a select few who use this as their “go-to excuse.”

Looking around the bouldering room, one shoe, without a doubt, is the most commonly worn shoe. La Sportiva’s Solution. They are $170 shoes that are pretty awesome apparently (I wouldn’t know, I have never tried them). I notice that many of the V2-V4 climbers rock the high-end shoes – Solutions, Miuras, Testies, etc. I guess I can see why: “Why not invest in the best shoes on the market for the sport you are so passionate about? After all, they will make you worlds better.” False.

I remember this one dude falling on a V4 midway through the route. First thing he does: sits down, unstraps the velcro, angrily pulls off his shoes, and slams them on the mat while yelling, “f**king shoes!” Yeah. Tell those $160 Miuras who’s boss.

Look up to my header image at the top of the page. You see those shoes? Those are Mad Rock’s Phoenix. I am proud to have paid $35 for my shoes on clearance at REI. I find no shame in having crappier shoes than most gyms’ rental shoes. (One of the girls on the youth climbing team asked me while we were working a V8 together, “Why are you wearing rental shoes?”) I find it funny that it would cost more to resole the shoes than to buy a new pair.

So you aren’t paying for skill-in-a-box when you buy those high-end pairs. Spending $150+ won’t make you more technically skilled or supply you with more power. They are shoes. On the shoe box it should read: “Good footwork will yield best results.” They will make your climbing better if you are a good climber. If you have crap footwork, you will do just as well if you use rental shoes.

Do you think good runners need the best shoes on the market? It will help if they are already great runners but giving them to a crappy runner won’t make them amazing. Do you think a pro tennis player needs the best racket to beat you? No- give them any racket that works and they will still destroy you.

So why make excuses? Unless your toes are hanging out of your shoes, you sprayed Pam on the bottom of your shoes, or you are wearing sneakers while climbing, blaming your failure on your shoes is not acceptable. Why do I continue to wear my $35 shoes? Because I’m poor and they work. Ill make the upgrade when I surpass my V7 plateau. If this is you, do yourself a favor and put the nice shoes away for a little while, buy a crappy pair of shoes, and work on footwork. Not only will your footwork skill vastly increase but you will have a good pair of shoes waiting to be used for their intended purpose: skillful climbing.

Inspired by today’s youth

Climbing at the gym, we have all experienced our fair share of youth climbers.  I’m not talking about the ones trying it for their first time during birthday parties, desperately grabbing every hold within reach.  I’m talking about the really passionate ones.  The kids a part of a team.  The ones flashing every route you’ve been projecting.  The kids who are half your age and climbing twice as long as you have.  Attending SCS Youth Nationals 2011 and ABS Youth Divisionals 2012 at Stone Summit, I got the chance to witness the nation’s best sport climbers and the south’s best boulderers compete.  I must say, its pretty inspiring to watch a V9 or 5.13 be crushed by someone still in grade school.

Think back to the time when you were watching them.  What did you think to yourself?  “Man, I wish I started that early…”  If you are like the average climber who tried climbing before but didn’t really get into it until/after college, you thought this.  Climbing was much smaller back when we were their age and we weren’t lucky enough to grow up with it.

Don’t be so discouraged though.  Yeah, we missed our chance on the youth competing days and growing up with climbing friends- but that is what makes rock climbing so awesome.  You don’t have to start young to excel and you will make climbing friends who are committed to the sport.  You have the rest of your life to pursue it so don’t worry about your late start.  You can’t turn back the clock- all you can do is look forward and give it your all.  If you want something, go for it.  Keep climbing.

Why I Rock Climb – in terms of Pokémon, puzzles, and Captain America

Why do we rock climb?  Hollywood has definitely assisted in providing exaggerated and inaccurate portrayals to influence us to climb.  Perhaps it was the super badass portrayal of climbing in the beginning of Mission Impossible II.  Perhaps it was how Sylvester Stallone fought terrorists armed with machine guns and helicopters in Cliffhanger.  Perhaps it was Jason Bourne showing us that climbing skills are only necessary when escaping the American Embassy in Bourne Ultimatum.  Perhaps it was the overly dramatic opening scene of Vertical Limit where Chris O’Donnell has to watch his dad cut the rope to fall to his death.  All of these movies did their fair share of false propaganda – death is around the corner at every moment, astronomical upper body strength is a must, and explosions are the normal on the wall.

So what drives us?  We all have our own reasons – being one with nature, the feeling of pumped forearms, showing others how much of a badass you are, meeting new people, meeting girls specifically, the feeling of accomplishment upon the completion of a route, blah blah blah.  As for me, I find it best to explain in terms of Pokémon, puzzles, and Captain America.

Being in the generation born in the late 80s and early 90s, I think it is safe to say that you didn’t have a childhood if you didn’t play Pokémon Red or Blue.  (If you didn’t play Pokémon, replace the following analogies with any other RPG game, i.e. Final Fantasy)  It was our dream as Pokémon masters to grow up and travel the globe and be the best.  (And real Pokémon masters spelled Pokémon with that “é” and memorized how to type it – but for the rest of this post, I’m going to replace Pokémon with ‘dudes’ because it is easier to type)  What made the game so addicting?  Your dudes fought to gain experience points to eventually level up.  Such an exhilarating feeling it is of advancing to that next level.  Every few levels, your dudes learned new techniques to add to their arsenal.  It was this easy-to-see progression that made it so addicting.  After advancing a few levels, you could go back to places you had previously been before and fight those wild dudes that gave you so much trouble when your dudes were weak – you easily destroy the them because of how much you progressed.  Oh if life was more like this.  The good news is – this defines rock climbing.

In rock climbing, this is how easy our progress is measured.  How awesome is that?  What other sport can you say the same for?  If you play a sport for a while, you ask yourself at some point, “Man, if only I could play against myself from X years ago…”  Ok you can’t really do that in climbing either.  But in those sports, you feel the progress but there is no way to accurately gauge it.  You feel as if you have gotten a lot better, but as others are getting better around you it is harder to gauge that progress.

As easy as it is to see your Pokémon level up, rock climbing is all the same due to the ingenious grading system.  Take bouldering for example.  Most noobs start off at V0 or V1 – after gaining some experience, you advance to V2s then on to V3s and so on.  So as you advance to the next level, the routes you couldn’t do previously are significantly easier.  Yeah we don’t have a bar displaying how many experience points we have, but we know for sure once we are at that next level.  I remember the early days of my V3 plateau- months climbing later at Stone Summit and now at V6s, those once impossible V3s are now mere warmups.  Progress couldn’t be clearer!

As much as climbing is physically intensive, it is just as demanding mentally.  Being a math major, problem solving comes naturally.  You’d be surprised of how many math professors and engineers who love to rock climb.  But it isn’t math problems I find joy in solving – it is all the other useless puzzles that aren’t necessary for life (but maybe for airplane rides).  Logic puzzles.  Sudoku puzzles.  Each problem is different.  Each solution is different.  If you get stuck, you have to try something different.  When you hear a good logic puzzle or riddle, we share it with someone else (like the guy who killed himself by hanging himself in a barn standing on a block of ice; the midget in the elevator with the umbrella) and pass it on, right?  Unfortunately, Sudoku puzzles definitely don’t share the same fate.  When you finish, its so addicting you want to do another one.  We are all familiar with the satisfaction of finishing a puzzle.

The same goes for rock climbing.  No two problems are the same.  When projecting a route, we see what works and what doesn’t as we assemble the solution piece by piece.  Each problem has a different solution but there are multiple solutions per problem.  When we are on a good problem or complete one, we recommend it to others.  Upon completion, that “Yes!” or “Finally!” feeling kicks in, then onward to the next problem.  It is this satisfaction that makes climbing that keeps climbers coming back for more.

Ok so most of you people have seen Captain America.  Remember that super cheesy scene where the German scientist dude is like, “Why someone weak? Because a weak man knows the value of strength, the value of power…

All cheesiness aside, this is actually meaningful for me.  We have all witnessed huge, jacked guys giving their go at climbing.  It is safe to say, 100% of the time, that they will suck their first day.  Knowing nothing about technique and thinking it is all about pullups, they will be too tired to climb in about 10 minutes.  Being a scrawny, short 5’4”-5’5” climber, I quickly learned that climbing is not about brute strength but utilizing your entire body to conserve the maximum amount of energy.  Why do girls advance faster in technique?  Because they understand this faster than guys who can already do pullups.  Starting off as a weaker climber with good technique, I progressed much faster than the strong climbers with mediocre technique.  Why?  “Because a weak man knows the value of strength, the value of power…”

The satisfaction of crystal clear progression, the thrill of the puzzle, and knowing the value of my strength.  This is why I climb.  Why do you climb?